Bhutan Airlines and Paro airport's incredible dangerous approach

[SQueeze]

Background:

Some months back, I had the fortunate opportunity to visit the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, a tiny nation sandwiched between 2 giant neighbours, India and China, and is what seemingly like a paradise to a lot of outsiders.

A highlight of this trip was landing and taking off from Paro airport, arguably one of the world’s most challenging. Sandwiched between hills, manouvering into the airport is a mark of airmanship. It has many twists and turns. We were rewarded with true majestic views of the highest mountain range on the planet.

Here’s the story. Hope readers will be inspired to visit this beautiful country, that prides itself as being the land of happiness.

Part 1

Flight: B3 701 (BKK-CCU-PBH)
Aircraft: A319
Reg: A5-RIM
Seat: 2A
Class: Business Class
Load: 8/12



The trip started in the wee hours of the morning at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi airport. At 5am in the morning, the check in hall was quiet unlike the usual times we have been going through this airport.



Bhutan Airlines check-in counter. It is truly quiet with only about 20 passengers today. Yes, you read it right, 20 passengers! I didn't miss a digit either.



As business class passengers, we were invited into the Miracle Lounge, which is a contract lounge used by various airlines.



The lounge was empty at that wee hours of the morning. It is spacious and felt very pleasant for us.



The range of food available was also quite extensive, even prior to 6am. and quite tasty.





Embarkation was from Gate D1A, a bus gate - a first for me from BKK airport.



The entire plane load was there. About 20 passengers today. Really.



Business class passengers were transported by van.



While economy class passengers were transported by bus. Yes. They just need one trip to accommodate everybody.



Our first sight of Bhutan Airlines. It’s in bright yellow livery. The other airline, the bigger one, Drukair is also in yellow. Definitely quite striking

[SQueeze]

Business class seats look comfortable enough for a regional flight. It’s broad and spacious.





Unique motif at the headrest area. At least it has some character.



Legroom is just average



Menu on today’s flight. Very simple. The dishes don't sound like a 5-star.





And a separate drink menu. With very generic items. Red wine. White wine. But is unknown where is the origin.





On the ground, drinks were served, and we started with sparkling wine. At 6am, yes! Unfortunately, it’s an awful one. Don’t ever take this. Also note that the menu reads "champagne" and by right, I believe only sparkling wine that comes from the Champagne region can be called champagne. This definitely did not come from there.




The crew was friendly and warm.



At about dawn, we started our taxi.



And then we were airborne shortly.

[SQueeze]

The first segment of the flight was uneventful. Just clouds after clouds after clouds. But it was a beautiful scene. A nice start of the vacation.



Breakfast. Well, it's just ok (I am being polite because Bhutanese are really very very nice people).



The other option is fried rice. Also just ok. Slightly better



No more Bhutanese alcohol. Happy with juice and coke.



The toilet is clean, with flower being a nice touch.



And 2.5 hours later, we descended over Kolkata.





And had a short layover at the airport. Bhutan-bound passengers remained on board. 5 passengers got off, and about 10 passengers boarded. Really poor loads on this flight.

The next segment between Kolkata and Paro is more interesting. Please sit on the left side of the plane for better views.

This is a short segment of less than an hour. But there is still snack service which is relatively substantial especially the chicken sandwich.





First we crossed the mighty Ganges. Initially I thought this was the Brahmaputra but looking at the map, it is the Ganges

[SQueeze]

The weather was not fantastic, the flat plains started to fold up into the lower hills.





First glimpse of snow-capped peaks.



And then slowly and steadily we descended towards Paro airport.

This is one of the most incredible landing. Please check out the video in the link below because it is the only way to truly appreciate the challenging nature of this route.



https://youtu.be/aU-FBVZyMJ4



We landed on a cold winter morning, slightly cloudy, and not too windy.



There is no taxiway, so we made a 180 degree turn at the end of the runway.

And finally stopped next to a Drukair ATR



One final look of the A319 that had brought us here.



On arrival at immigration, we were held back as our visa didn’t get transmitted properly to the authorities. We were “detained” in the officer’s office. But he was really warm and friendly. Bhutanese people are so friendly and welcoming, right from the immigration guy, very good first impression.



Since the visa didn’t get sorted for quite awhile, we were treated to a nice warm cup of butter tea - an acquired taste but I had acquired it during many extensive treks into the Himalayas since many years. It’s a first for my Friend and he was quite put off.



We made time to plane spot during the one hour or so of ‘detainment’. Late morning is "peak hour" at Paro so planes travel up and down the single runway without taxiway and it is quite a manouvre for everyone.

[SQueeze]

Part 2: About Bhutan, for me, paradise on earth

I didn’t expect Bhutan to be great. I have been going in and out of the mountains in India, Nepal, Tibet, and I know there the mountains are bigger and steeper, and more impressive.

But I changed my mind in this trip. Bhutan is a favourite. It has a timeless quality to it. It has preserved its culture, its environment above rapid development and the feeling is palpable. It feels like travelling back in time. This trip is a highlight in my many years of travel and this comparing to the 60 other countries I had been to.

The first thing that struck me here is the clarity of water. Incredibly pristine.



And the timelessness of the space. Life seems to have gone on here the same since centuries.




Temples and monasteries are venerable spaces and the atmosphere is always quaint and serious. And hardly any tourists!









The fields and the villages have little changed.






We like this unique village of penises and we had so much fun!









Penis parade!

[SQueeze]

When in Bhutan, don’t miss the opportunity to wear local costume. Everybody is wearing it.



The food is truly spectacular. Rich, creamy, spicy, and savoury. It’s unlike anything we can find elsewhere, neither Indian nor Chinese. More like a marriage of both with so much cheese and cream, also like French, but spicy. My favourite is the datshi. Top right. Chilli and cheese essentially. So perfect with the brown rice.



The last day we went to do the must-see of Bhutan. Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

I have to warn. It is quite challenging even for seasoned trekker like me.

But oh my god it is truly spectacular. In fact none of the photos I had seen or taken do justice to how impressive this place is. It always appear small in photos but in reality, it is huge, so we miss out the scale and monumentality of the place without visiting.

We are so high up that the cliff seems bottomless. Awe inspiring.

Pictures from the trek up:

First sight of the monastery on top of the cliff in the distance. From here, it's 2 hours minimum.



It looks small but it's actually a huge multiple level building. Photo does not tell the real thing. Misleading



You have the option of taking the pony, like my friend, for half the journey. The lower levels are quite forested



And then the vistas start opening up






At the midpoint. Great spot to rest. And where the pony had to be left behind.




Another hour and then one should reach another viewing point where most of the photos are taken. It looks small but it really is not. The scale is hard to believe without being there oneself.



From the view point, it’s a steep 200+ steps down and then back up. Be ready for some tough exercise.



This is a sacred place. No photographs are allowed inside but I can’t describe in words how beautiful and awesome the interiors are. The Bhutanese maintain their holy places very well.

[SQueeze]

Part 1

Flight: B3 700 (PBH-CCU-BKK)
Aircraft: A319
Reg: A5-RIM
Seat: 1A
Class: Business Class
Load: 4/12


After a short 4 day stay (basically also just about how much I can afford at the moment), we have to go home. Note that there is a minimum charge of USD220 per head per night to be paid as royalty to Bhutan. It is expensive although this figure includes hotels, car, and guide, and all entrance fees.

Paro airport building is in Bhutanese style. And yes, we find out that all buildings in Bhutan must have Bhutanese design ! It’s a rule.



The spacious check in hall with barely any passenger. Yes, today’s flight was also about 20-passenger load.



So every country has the usual standard prohibitions of no powerbank, no weapons etc. Only in Bhutan, we have more prohibitions of these unique items!



We travel business class. So we have Fast Track. But we only find ourselves laughing at this this. Fast Track when it’s essentially just us in the airport building. This is so non-Bhutanese. Please save paper, and save the trees.



The lounge is very simple.



But quite stocked up in drinks, not so much of food.







Waiting area below.

[SQueeze]

Time to board the flight back to Kolkata via Bangkok.



Same seats.



But I picked the first row now since the other rows have less legroom.



Just noticed that there is leg rest in other rows



And all seats recline like this



Welcome drink is juice. No more Bhutan Airlines alcohol after the first sparkling wine.



Soon after we were in the air and wow, the following is easily the most spectacular flight I have ever been on. Truly jaw-dropping scenery.

Looking back towards Paro airport and how it sits on the valley



and then it was all a parade of the greatest mountains on the planet. And this is probably the most scenic flight i have ever taken



First up is Bhutan's highest peak, Jomolhari (7326 m)



And then next is Kanchenjunga, India's highest (8,586 m) and also third highest on the planet. Massive and majestic.



Last but not least, the tallest of them all, Everest (8848 m) . There are two peaks in the centre of the picture, i think it is the one on the left.

[SQueeze]

Past the mountain range, the rest of the flight feels uneventful. So it's time to do some browsing.



The inflight magazine contains info of the mountains which is very nice.



And the safety card has a unique local touch to it





It was a short flight to Kolkata but snack service was provided too



Lunch was served between Kolkata and Bangkok. And it was better than the inbound flight.



I had the Bhutanese selection. The datshi on the left side of the main course tray is a bhutanese staple of cheese sauce. This is getting to be my favourite dish of the world.



My friend had the continental selection.



Final thoughts: This was a special trip. Bhutan is just such a magical place. The flights in and out are highlights on themselves. I would not compare food, seats, meals, etc against other airlines or rate them in any way. Because this is never what Bhutan is about or why I am inspired to share this story.

Thank you for reading.

[9V-JKL]

Thanks SQueeze for sharing. Always a joy to read your TRs to far flung destinations.

[SQueeze]

Thank you 9V-JKL

Always Happy to share about the lesser known airlines and countries.

[yflyer]

Another amazing TR, SQueeze! Your TR's are among the most eye-opening I have ever encountered...thumbs up for being such an intrepid traveller, and taking the time to share your adventures with all of us!

[SQueeze]

Another amazing TR, SQueeze! Your TR's are among the most eye-opening I have ever encountered...thumbs up for being such an intrepid traveller, and taking the time to share your adventures with all of us!

Thank you sir!

You must come and check out Bhutan. It's a different world.